Well finished, broke horses are easier to pull up and stop safely after a run, no matter the layout of the arena. That being said, I don’t like to make my horses stop straight and hard at the end of my runs. I feel every time we ram and jam on a barrel horse we are taking a toll on his hocks. Stopping at the end of your barrel run is not a jerk down. Ask first with your body, (by taking a deep seat and sitting on your pockets) then your voice, and then your hands. Sit down, give your horse a clue and then ask him to stop. Easier said than done, I know, but do it anyway.
Bits
Bits and biting often have as much to do with getting stopped as well as helping a horse work to his full potential. We do start all of our colts in an O ring snaffle. Then if the weight and the shank of the banana gag does not seem to bother a young horse, we will move into that. As a horse gets closer to competition I will switch them into some sort of a shorter, smaller gag bit. What I seem to find after awhile of running these barrel horses, is that all this gag or slide in a bit starts feeling like pulling on a sponge. Not that you want to be pulling on them, but a gag is a delayed reaction as it has to slide a number of inches before engaging. I want to handle my horse less, but have a quicker reaction when needed. So, at some point in a young horse’s career, I will go to a bit with either a broken mouthpiece, a three piece mouth or a chain mouth, that does not slide on a shank (gag) at all. Barrel racing is a quick sport and I want a quick reaction from my bit if I need one.
Reins
If you have ever ridden with me, you know that I ride with a shorter rein. If I only have to move my hand an inch and you have to move yours a foot, I am going to beat you. Longer reins are of no help when turning a barrel because the outside is left with way more rein than needed and doesn’t help to gather your horse up or control his hind end. So, when your horse is standing still, your reins should just barely reach your saddle horn.
Drills
I change up my training routine occasionally in order to ensure that my horses are listening and not getting bored. Horses that start anticipating any moves are redirected. Most barrel racers take advantage of the same basic drills. Speed transitions, turning all lefts or rights, stopping and turning away from the barrels, double turning barrels, one rein stops and other exercises are common and all good.
I also like to lope a big circle around a barrel, approximately 20 feet in diameter, staying an even distance all the way around the barrel. I use this as a warm up or to lope one down. I lope until I feel a rhythm with the horse’s feet. Then and only then, I will set myself up and make a barrel turn. This exercise will really smooth one out and get rid of a flat or stiff spot in your turn. I will lope around, look to my spot, turn a nice and smooth barrel and then go on to my next barrel. If the final small turn is not a good one, I will go back out to the big circle and start over until my final turn is smooth and nice. This way making a nice barrel turn becomes their reward and your horse gets to move on.
I have found that fixing a problem horse or keeping a good one honest may take some time and patience. I like to say, jokingly, it takes 30 days to pattern a barrel horse and the rest of his life to keep him working.
Remember, if you are having fun, your horse is also.